Italian, Notable Chef, Neighborhood Gem
http://www.luparestaurant.com/
170 Thompson St. – West Village

We are big fans of Mario Batali. Who isn’t? Del Posto, Casa Mono, Babbo and Otto are among our favorite restaurants. Del Posto ranks among the top ever. So we were rather excited about our 5:30 pm reservation during prime holiday season. Unlike other restaurants in the neighborhood, they were fully bustling at this hour.

We were rather disappointed to be escorted to the back room, where we were the first seated. While it was a fabulous corner table for two, the room lacks the personality of the front area. And so it began. We decided to focus on Pesce, Pasta and share a main dish. We were fairly disappointed with everything BUT the main dish. Perhaps we made bad choices? But this is Lupa and we were expecting to be blown away. What a damn bummer! And it was my birthday, too. It did not ruin the night, no worries there. However, we will never return :(.

MENU:
Octopus, Ceci Beans & Lemon $10
Sardines, Golden Raisins & Pine Nuts $10

Bavette Cacio & Pepe $14

Pappardelle with Chicken Ragu (Special) $22
Striped Bass Sunchokes, Grapefruit & Broccoli (Special Market Fish) $22

Let’s begin with the Sardines.  After a  prior trip to San Francisco during Sardine season, perhaps we are a bit biased on the wonders of a fresh sardine, but these were FISHY and not particularly palettable.  Second, the octopus.  Frankly, BLT Bar & Grill has a fine octopus that blows this away.  It should have been at least tasty.

I ordered the Bavette Cacio & Pepe  after recently watching Bourdain’s ‘Layover:  Rome’ and how he loves classic homemade pasta with butter, cheese, salt and pepper.  I guess you’ve got to be in Italy although I expected more from his bud, Mario!  Not only was the pasta not overly impressive (overcooked), but it was too salty which ruined the dish.  Steve, for $22, got the daily pasta special.  His pasta was overdone as well and there was nothing terribly impressive about the sauce.  Although it was by far the better of the two pasta dishes.

Finally, our main course arrived.  The Market Fish was striped bass and it was served with Sunchokes (Jerusalem Artichokes), grapefruit and broccoli.  This dish was incredible.  The fish was perfectly prepared and we both loved the grapefruit with the sunchokes.  Perhaps we should have focused less on trying apps and having pasta and more on main courses.  But we will never know.  I would go back to Osteria Morini any day before going back to Lupa.  Sorry Mario, but clearly you are so far removed from this place…and same goes for your Executive Chef.  No doubt he was at Del Posto or Otto!